We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from. To learn more or opt-out, read our Cookie Policy. If this slight overhang is too short, water will drip behind the gutters, leading to rotted roof sheathing and fascia, stained siding, and even soil erosion and a flooded basement.
Fix the problem by installing sheet-metal drip edge, also called drip cap, which is available at lumberyards and home centers. Slip the wide, flat flange of the material all the way under the first course of roof shingles, as illustrated. After the membrane is installed, attach the drip edge to the rakes making sure to start at the bottom and work your way towards the peak. This ensures that a step effect is achieved which will allow the water run-off to move correctly.
There are a few recommendations out there for making the bends and the cuts at the peak of the rake side. I have experimented with several but found my method to be far easier and just as effective. To do the rakes, I align my drip edge piece up with the peak and make a cut straight up through the vertical leg. Then, I make the bend on the roof leg over the peak.
Next, I place a line down the other side of the vertical leg, again using the the peak seam as a guide. Then, I snip off the kick-out that crosses over that line.
This allows the overlap section to fit flush beneath the front drip edge piece. For most applications, the use of galvanized roofing nails is the best practice. If you live in an area where high winds are an issue i. This spacing varies from one location to another. So, be sure to check your local code requirements. When installing drip edge to a finished roof, the process is the same with one not-so-tiny addition. Ideally, you want to be able to nail the drip edge in place without doing any damage to the roof shingles.
This often means that the lower run starter shingles and 1st course have to be removed or loosened enough to allow access for tools. Removal will provide the easiest install for the drip edge. If removal of the roof shingles is not an option, you can still get some good protection by doing a cement attachment. Doing this is a subpar installation method to using the above method, and does not meet the standards set by the International Code Council of using mechanical attachments, but is still better than having no drip edge at all.
To use this method, you will need to loosen the lower run of shingles with a putty knife. Then, slip the roof drip edge under the shingles and the tar paper on the eaves. Place a bead of roofing cement along the top edge of the drip edging and press down on the loose shingles. To prevent causing damage to the roof shingles, it is better to do this when the temperatures are warm enough to make the shingles pliable.
In cold temps, the roof shingles become stiff and brittle and will break very easily. In addition, the warmer temps will allow the loosened shingles to reseal themselves in a quicker fashion.
If you have to wait out the cold weather for the seal to retake, you run the risk of wind damage in the interim. So, try to time all repair work that requires lifting or moving roof shingles to coincide with temps around 70 degrees. I wanted to include examples of some mistakes that you want to avoid and explain why these will cause issues.
In the image above, the handyman is doing several things incorrectly. First of all, the drip edge that he is using has a vertical leg that is way too short to fit inside the gutter. The whole point of installing drip edges is to direct the water into the gutters and away from the fascia and house foundation. To correct this situation, make sure to purchase drip edge flashing with a long enough vertical leg to reach the gutter. If the gutters have been installed too low, they may need to be raised and corrected.
If you find yourself in a situation where you are using drip edging that can not reach your gutters, you can still increase your protection by using the proper drip edge to fascia distance. Unfortunately, this is the next mistake that he is making. He is placing the drip edge right against the fascia. If spaced properly, the drip edge would still provide some protection despite the gutter issue.
But installed this way is going to result in surface tension water running down the face of the fascia board and behind the gutter. This will help keep the run-off from reaching the fascia board and will allow it to drip down into the gutter. Although this is not as good as having the drip edge inside the gutter, it is far better than the way he is doing it.
However, it still exposes the fascia to windblown rain which will also run down behind the gutter. The next thing that just jumps out to me is that he is not creating the proper overlap at the corners. What is going to happen in this situation is the rain is going to run down the corner and wick back between the space where these two sections meet.
You should never, never, never butt two seams up against each other when doing any type of flashing. Learn how to do the proper cuts to make the wraps. Practice on some scraps if needed. In a perfect world, the drip edge would be installed prior to roofing shingles. The vertical leg would extend down into the gutters and not have any face nails or screws. In an imperfect world, you are likely to find that retrofitting drip edging presents you with some questionable situations.
For instance, how do you install drip edge flashing around gutter clips that are in the way? Some may tell you to make two relief cuts around the gutter clips and fold the tab up. There is no way to overlap these cuts and water can work its way behind the exposed edges.
Instead, I prefer to place the clip screws through both the gutter and the drip edge. The drip edge should always be installed with the flashing under the felt on the eaves side and over felt on the rakes unless local code dictates otherwise. A few places Florida may require an alternative way of drip edge installation. The best practice is to always install the drip edge so that it is inside the gutter.
The whole purpose is to direct the water into the gutters. It should never be installed outside the gutter i. Does metal roof need drip edge? A drip edge is a metal usually aluminum strip which extends beyond other parts of a roof and directs rainwater off the roof away from the fascia and into the gutter. This is important because a badly positioned drip edge—or no drip edge at all— can cause overflowing of gutters, over front or back.
Do you have to replace drip edge when replacing roof? Drip edge comes in foot strips and attaches to the roof deck before the roofing felt goes on. Unless the old drip edge is in like-new condition, replace it.
How far should shingles overhang drip edge? The edge of the shingles should hang over a roof between an inch and an inch and a half — or between a half inch and three-quarters of an inch if drip edge flashing is installed. Too much overhang and the shingles could blow off in high winds; too little can allow water to seep into rake or fascia boards. What is the difference between drip edge and gutter apron? Location set to view all.
Show All Products. Guide to Drip Edges for Shingle Roofs. Drip edges have two key purposes: Direct water away from fascia: Due to cohesion, surface tension and other forces, water droplets tend to stick to one another and to the surfaces they are on, albeit slightly. A drip edge is designed to take advantage of those forces and, along with gravity, direct water into the gutter. If the home has no gutter, the drip edge will prevent the water from running down the fascia and onto or into the soffit cavity.
However, without the drip edge, the water sticks to shingles, potentially working its way under the shingles to cause a leak. For example, water may cling to the fascia, which may cause rot, or, in severe conditions, a leak into the home.
Protect from wind-driven rain: When conditions are serious, the wind pushes water around on a roof. However, on the edges, the drip edge must compete with the wind. Wind can easily push the water upwards before gravity pulls the water down. The drip edge needs to hang significantly off the edge of the roof and has two to four inches of lower flange to combat this.
Drip Edge Material Types Drip edges are made of various plastics and metals, which are both acceptable under most building codes so long as the metals are corrosion-resistant or galvanized. Galvanized steel: Drip edges are designed to be in contact with water; so, if they are made of steel, they need to be galvanized to prevent rust.
Minimum gauge steel is preferable so that the drip edge can withstand strong winds. Copper: Copper is a sturdy metal that gives a roof a unique look. When used as a drip edge, it should be a minimum of 0. Drip Edge Profile Types There are three basic profiles of drip edge flashing, but each goes by more than one name, which can be confusing.
However, Type C is still acceptable according to most building codes.
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